Fort Collins Beginner Fly Fishing Lessons: Fly Reels

Today's Blog Post

Fly Reels

The never ending debate amongst anglers goes like this..."a fly reel does nothing but hold your backing and fly line, so don't spend a lot of money on your reel."  "A fly reel does a lot more than hold your backing and fly line, so make sure you buy a good one."  "Large arbor reels are better reels." Here's FCFF no non-sense take on the subject..."it depends." But before we explain and give our final say, allow us to walk you through reels 101.  

Action of Fly Reels

• A single action reel is the most popular type of fly reel on the market today.  This means the reel has a 1:1 retrieve ration. A complete turn of the handle equals one complete turn of the spool.  Mechanically, this style of reel is simple and if made with quality parts, should last a lifetime.  
• A multiplying reel has a retrieve ratio greater than 1:1. Obviously, the benefit of this feature is an angler's ability to retrieve line faster when reeling.  Mechanically, they are more complicated than a single action reel, and if high quality parts are not used, then these reels can cause problems (speaking from experience). 
• By the use of a trigger, not a handle, an automatic reel, automatically retrievers fly line. Mechanically, this means more moving parts, probable to high failure rates, and adds un-necessary weight to the reel.  To be short and direct, do not purchase this type of reel. 

Drag System

Classic Spring and Pawl Reel

By today's standards, a spring and pawl reel is considered to be a traditional reel, representing out-dated technology. Much of that statement is true; however, I personally believe that click and pawl reels can be used in any fly fishing situation. Why?  Click and pawl reels have been landing fish, from trout to tuna, for over 100 years.  How?  The reels are almost mechanically fail-proof, and truth be told, it's the angler...not the reel (or rod) that lands the fish!  To over emphasize the point, do you need a high-tech drag system to land a 2lbs trout on a 9ft 5wt rod...absolutely NOT! The benefits of using a click and pawl reel are; it can be lighter than reels with drag systems; and the reel is designed to feed-out line smoothly which may help prevent tippet breaks.  Lastly, and a personal favorite of mine, a click and pawl reel allows you to fight (palming the reel) a fish, in what I believe to be the most natural way possible. But, if you are consistently targeting large fish (+20lbs) you may want to look at reels with high-tech drag systems.

Large Arbor Reel with Cork Disc-Drag System

High-Tech Disc-Drag reel systems are the industry rage!  These type of reels, use various materials that essentially act like a brake on a car.  A quick turn compresses the inner pads and your reel can now, virtually stop a truck!  Another quick turn, and your drag system smoothly lets out line for fine tippet fishing applications.  Not all disc drag's are made the same.  Generally speaking, domestic made reels versus imports may cost more, but you'll get better engineering, better parts and over all, a lifetime of better performance. But, the question is, do you need a high-tech disc-drag reel? Based on my personal experience, and for those who are targeting smaller fish (-20lbs), the answer is NO.      

Note: Before moving on, we should mention the following: a 2lb fish in a fast moving current, with rocks and sub-merged trees, will test an angler using a light weight, e.g. medium action 4wt rod with a spring and pawl reel.  Again, the choice of equipment (reels) depends on situational and personal preference factors. 

Fly Reel Line Weight

It's simple, remember fly rod weight = fly line weight = fly reel weight.  

For Example:  9ft 5wt = WF 5 F = 5 weight reel.

Now days, especially with medium and larger arbor reels, you may see a reel that is labeled 4/5 weight or 6/7/8 weight. This simply means that the reel has the capacity, depending on how much backing line is added, to carry multiple weight (diameter) lines.  This beg's the question, can I use my 6wt reel on my 4wt fly rod.  Answer: Yes, but it may feel heavy in the hand.  Can I use my 4 weight reel on my 6 weight reel. Answer: in a pinch, yes, but not recommended.  Overall, it is always best to match the reel weight with the rod weight.  

Note: I typically line-up my reels. I do this because I like how the extra weight loads my rod. For example, I will add a 6wt line to a 9ft/5wt rod. Due to the larger diameter of the 6wt line, I will then reduce my backing so the rod-reel-line is properly balanced.

Left or Right Handed Reels

Buying a reel that offers both left and right handed retrieves is optimal, and does not effect the overall performance and value of the reel.  Plus, if you ever hand the rod down to a family member or have a desire to sell it, a left and right retrieve option is a must have feature.  Note:  Many beginners make this mistake...be sure to spool your backing and fly line properly so the spool's revolution matches a left of right handed retrieve.   

Spare Spool and Large Arbor Reels

Modern Large Arbor and Spare Spool

Spare spools are a matter of convenience and personal preference.  Most fisherman inter-change spools to change from a floating line to a sinking line.  However, what most fisherman fail to realize is that 95% of their time on the water, will only require floating line (depends on waters fished). So why buy an extra spool lined with sinking line, and then carry a heavy-bulky object in your vest that you rarely use?  If you find yourself in a situation that requires various types of sinking lines, then you may need a spare spool with a sinking line. Personally, I do have a spare spool (only one), but I travel the world, and I fish in highly specialized waters. Overall, let's say for trout fishing, I don't find spare spools to be a must have item. To go deep, you can lengthen your leader and simply add split-shot; or you could use inter-changeable sinking tips (Poly-Leaders, for example).  The downside to these methods is the casting 'feel' stroke (it may feel clunky).  As I initially stated, it's a matter of convenience and personal preference.  Lastly, if you do not buy spare spools when you purchase your reel, in the future, finding a spare spool that fits your reel, might become challenging.

Now days, it's hard to find anything but a large or medium arbor spool. When compared to a traditional spring and pawl reel, the overall size will be much different and the width of the spool will be wider (i.e. one hockey puck vs. two stacked hockey pucks).  Though the large and medium spools may look much bigger than traditional spring and pawl reels, the over all weight might be the same. The advantages of the larger arbor reels are: ability to reel in line faster, and less coiling of the line, when stored.  Other than looking cool for some folks, in my personal opinion, when fishing for smaller game, the benefits of large arbor reels, are minimal.  In other words, don't expect your large arbor reel to help you cast better or catch more fish. 

Note: I recommend buying reels that offer an exposed rim so that the angler may palm the reel (this may be hard to find in older spring and pawl reels).  Palming is a technique where the angler gently applies pressure to the exposed rim of the spool while the fish runs.  The small amount of pressure from the palm of the hand becomes your drag system.    

Weight of the Reel and Backing Line

Large Arbor spooled with backing and fly line

When you narrow down your reel choices, I would always recommend going with the lightest, yet structurally strongest reel possible (not the strongest drag system).  Why? With a light weight reel and a well balance outfit, you'll be less likely to experience hand-wrist-arm stress/fatigue. Note: beware of low cost, light weight reels made from plastic parts.  

If a trophy fish were to make a long run, say +200 feet and you did not have any backing attached to your 90ft fly line (standard fly line length), then you would be faced with a big problem.  To counter this issue, we typically attach 20lbs or 30lbs Dacron line to our fly line and reel (30lbs Dacron is typically used for larger reels and big game fish).  But, how many of us freshwater anglers (trout) can honestly say that we have had a fish run over 200 feet. The take away message: if you are fishing for smaller fish, and you want to lighten the total weight of your reel, then don't add the total manufacture recommended amount of backing. 

Saltwater Reels

Large Arbor Saltwater Reel. Fish is already into the backing!

A reel of any sort worse enemies are salt and sand!  You could use your freshwater reel in saltwater conditions, but if your real is of poor quality and you do not properly clean you reel after use, it will ultimately corrode and fail.  Things to look for in a good saltwater reel: high quality parts designed to take saltwater punishment, and your reel needs to hold at last 200 yards of 30lbs backing (ocean fish are big, strong and fast!).  Many high-end ($) reels today have been engineered for both sweet and saltwater.  But, remember to chose the lightest weight reel possible (not the strongest drag system).

Final Thoughts

I spent nearly my whole life fishing spring and pawl reels.  When I switched to large arbor reels, I did not catch bigger, or more fish (but, I did spend more $ on my reels).  If I lost a trophy fish on a spring and pawl reel, it felt more than okay...it felt GREAT!  In fact, I would go so far as to say, that we have lost the art of fighting fish (palming, etc).  We now rely on drag systems that could stop a train. Now days, for my rods #1-#6 I do not use a reel with a drag system.  I believe the use of a drag on these types of rods/reels, is totally unnecessary.  

Always remember, the most important equipment in fly fishing is not your reel, it's your brain and heart.  

Fort Collins Beginner Fly Fishing Lessons: Fly Rods

Today's Blog Post

Classic Split Cane Bamboo Rods

By now you understand how fly lines, and matching leader-tippet to hook size are extremely important.  In my opinion, the next most important step  is your purchasing your fly rod.  Where to start?  I will approach this as though you are a beginner and you are looking for a well balanced 'starter' rod. 

Modern Graphite Rods and Reels

Design: Each fly rod has been designed to cast a specific line weight.  For example: a six weight fly rod has been designed to cast a six weight fly line.  The chart below is a guideline, not a rule, for balancing rod-weight, and fly size.  

Rod/Line Weight 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

Fly Size Range 12-28 10-26 8-24 6-20 4-16 1/0 - 12 2/0 - 10 3/0 - 8 4/0 - 6 6/0 - 4

Length:  Single hand fly rods range from 6ft to 10ft.  Two handed rods (commonly called switch and spey) range from +/- 11ft to +/- 15ft.  A typical starter, all purpose single hand rod, designed to fish for trout or bass, is a 9 ft 5 or 6 weight.  For local New England waters, I would pick a 9ft 5wt.  Now what 'Action or Flex," do you pick?

Action: Not all rods are the same.  Each material (bamboo, fiberglass, graphite, boron) possesses physical properties which, along with proprietary manufactured tapered designs, determines the characteristics of a fly rod performance.  Plus, there are entry level rods, and high end rods with both fast, medium, and slow actions.  Each manufacturer has their own action indexing system and as a result, there is no set standard for measurement.  For Example: An Orvis 9 ft 5 wt Helios fast action rod will feel and perform differently than a Scott S4 9ft 5wt fast action rod. Before I dive deeper into this discussion, just what are I am talking about when I use the word 'Action,' or "Flex.'

In the fly rod industry, when we use of the word 'Action or Flex,' we are referring to the bend of the rod. Technically, 'action' is defined as the relative resistance to bending as you move down the length of the fly rod shaft. The below picture clearly shows the 'bend' of a fly rod designed to be fast, medium or slow.

Let's take a closer look at the available 9ft 5wt actions:

Fast Action or Tip-Flex: due to the specific tapered design of the blank, these rods bend less, and are stiffer. Plus, they don't call them 'tip-flex' for nothing.  In other words, the rod is designed to flex only from the tip-top to about 1/3 down the rod.  As a result, when you catch a fish, the rod's butt and mid-section do the work for you, and your ability to feel and play the fish is entirely different from medium and slow actions rods. However, fast action rods tend to cast farther and have become the most popular action-type rod on the market today (both with beginners and advance fly fisherman). The stiffness of these rods will help you mend and pick up line easier, create tight loops with ease, create higher line speeds allowing you to punch line through strong winds, make longer cast in almost all situations with greater ease, and significantly increase your ability to cast larger flies and heavier weighted fly lines.  In other words, with moderately correct casting form, the rod does much of the work for you. In Patagonia Argentina, where sustained winds of 25mph are the norm, a fast action rod, such as a 9.6ft 6wt, is a MUST have!        

Medium Action or Mid-Flex: these rods bend more than fast action rods, and generally flex from the tip-top to the middle portion of the rod, or generally the 2/3 mark down the rod.The remaining 1/3 of the rod, from about +/- the middle of the rod to the rod butt, will provide the angler with a stiff feel which aides in casting and fighting fish. Despite fast action rods being the most popular, the medium action rod, in my opinion are the most versatile fly rods on the market. In the hands of a competent caster, you can do everything a fast action rod can do. If you prefer slower line speed for subtle dry-fly presentations, and a forgiving tip which allows you to play the fish and avoid tippet breaks, then I would highly recommend a medium action rod.     

Slow Action or Full-Flex:  Though manufacturers make slow action graphite rods, historically, when it comes to slow action rods, we tend to think bamboo and fiberglass. Now think very slow line speed and ultra sensitive tip-top protective action.  A sensitive tip-top action will absorb strikes and prevent fine tippet, such as 8X, from breaking. A slow action rod is used by many small stream dry-fly fisherman who prefer delicate short distance casts looking to feel the action of a fighting fish from the tip-top of the rod, to his/her hands. However, there are a handful of old school purist who will, for example, purposely use a 9ft 9wt slow action rod (mostly for saltwater fishing because when you use heavier lines and flies, your casting stroke changes and a slower action rod enhances performance).

Note:  Learning on a slow action rod, in my opinion, can be very challenging for a beginner.  Why? To obtain optimal fly line and fly rod performance, an angler must be consistently patient and develop timing (as seen in a River Runs Through It).  Personally, I grew up fishing a 9ft 6wt slow action fiberglass rod.  As a youth, I hated it...I wanted instant gratification.  But, it was the only fly rod I had, so I stuck with it. Now, as an adult, after learning how to use this tool, I cherish every moment I cast with this rod! 

Final Thoughts 

As a beginner, as you develop your casting stroke, it could take you several years to finally determine which flex style you prefer. To accelerate your understanding of fly rod performance, I would ask your local fly shop to provide you with a variety of rod-reel-line set-ups. If you do this make sure the rod-reel-line is properly balanced; otherwise your wasting your time. Also, don't be afraid to ask a friend to try his/her well balanced rod-reel-line.  For me,  I tend to favor the following actions: medium-fast, medium, and medium-slow. I also tend to line-up my rod/reel. In other words, if I am using a 9ft/5wt, I will add 6wt line to my reel and adjust the amount of backing so I don't over spool my reel (I no longer follow Mfg's guidelines for line-reel-backing amounts).

Fort Collins Beginner Fly Fishing Lessons: Hook Size

I grew up thinking, the bigger the lure/hook, the bigger the fish.  I suppose if you're fishing for large toothy species, that rationale may apply.  In the trout game, large hook thinking is mostly unfounded, and in many situations, could severely effect your success.      

Size Does Matter -- Read On.

Tippet Size	Tippet Diameter	Approximate breaking strength in Super Strong nylon (pounds)	Balances with fly sizes:
8X	.003"	1.75	22, 24, 26, 28
7X	.004"	2.5	18, 20, 22, 24
6X	.005"	3.5	16, 18, 20, 22
5X	.006"	4.75	14, 16, 18
4X	.007"	6	12, 14, 16
3X	.008"	8.5	6, 8, 10
2X	.009"	11.5	4, 6, 8
1X	.010"	13.5	2, 4, 6
0X	.011"	15.5	1/0, 2, 4
.012	.012"	18.5	5/0, 4/0,3/0, 2/0
.013	.013"	20	5/0, 4/0,3/0, 2/0
.015	.015"	25	5/0, 4/0,3/0, 2/0

Since the above graph features typical trout hook sizes, let's take a closer look. The below picture accurately describes the hook's features, but how do we determine the size of a hook?  Hooks come ins all sizes and shapes.  The largest hooks range from a monstrous 18/0 to 1/0, and the smallest hooks range from 1 to the eye squinting, barely visible 32. 

The size of the hook is simply determined by the width of the gape (the measurement between the shank and the point). 

Initially, the system may seem confusing, but always remember to start at zero.  As you progress up in the numerical numbers (1, 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14,16,18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32) the gape becomes smaller, thus the hooks become smaller.  As you decrease from zero (1/0, 2/0, 3/0, 4/0, 5/0, 6/0, 7/0, 8/0, 9/0,10/0,11/0,12/0,13/0,14/0,15/0,16/0,17/0,18/0) the hook gape becomes wider, thus the hooks become larger (not necessarily longer). 

By now, in the above chart, you'll see how smaller or larger hooks match up with smaller or larger diameter leaders and tippets.  For example, you would never match a size 2 hook with an 8X leader. Why?  the diameter of the 8X tippet will not be strong enough to cast or turn-over the larger fly. Thus your casting and presentation will suffer, if not be impossible; and the likelihood of your tippet breaking increases significantly. Try it on the water...you'll understand immediately!

The 'X' Factor: Strength and Length

Your at the fly shop and you see hooks labeled Size 2, 2X/2XL or Size 4, 2X/4XL...now you are really confused.  To keep things simple, all this means is the hook is stronger and has a longer shank (when compared to standard hooks noted in the above graph).  To be a bit more precise, 2X simply means the hook has a thicker-stronger diameter; and the 2XL simply means the length of the shank is two times the length of a standard hook.  Applications for stronger and longer hooks usually means you fishing deep for bigger fish (large streamer flies).

Converting from the world of lurers, worm and bobbers, and 8 lb test line, will take some time.  But once you master it, you'll soon realize how simple and effective it is.

Fort Collins Beginner Fly Fishing Lessons: How to Pick a Class

Today's Blog Post

I grew up in New England, fishing both salt and sweet water.  In either waters, I am forever thankful for all fishy experiences I have had -- most especially to the people who provided and/or shared theses experiences with me.  I am also grateful for the thousands of mistakes I made along the way (I do mean thousands -- I am 100% self-taught).  When I think of my errors, e.g. back casting a fly into a stream side tree (not once, but two times in a row), I am thoroughly embarrassed.  Decades have passed since that time, and that New England boy is now a roll casting expert (i.e., no more climbing trees for flies).  

In northern Colorado, you have many fly fishing and fly casting class opportunities.  My recommendations to beginners:

1. Take as many free classes as possible.  For example: Colorado Parks & Wildlife 

Note: Many free classes at retail stores are designed for you to buy product (not judging, but could be good, neutral, or bad for student/consumer). 

2. Go make mistakes -- climb trees! 

3. Feel free to read info on this blog: Equipment Info

4. Use my blog search engine, e.g., type in nymphs, or nymph rigs (there are hundreds of educational posts)  

5. When you have exhausted free classes, and have climbed many trees, maybe it's time for fly casting lessons USA Lessons  

Why FFI instruction? Casting Instructors are trained to teach (i.e., many guides are excellent guides, but average teachers).  Find an instructor near you Fly Fishers International     
      
6. Class Size: Arguably the most critical information for beginners and consumers.

For the very best education, research supports small class size!  Many industry classes are packed with students and one instructor only = it's a poor educational/teaching model, but highly profitable.  I have seen +20 students in a class (e.g., 20 students X $100 = $2,000).

Hope this info has helped, and good luck with your fishing journey.

Fort Collins Beginner Fly Fishing Lessons: Deep Water Tactics

Today's Blog Post

As I leave Fort Collins, it looks to be another great day to fish the Poudre River Canyon (you can't be serious?).    

On June 22 and 23, despite weather conditions, I needed a river/nature fix -- the sound of water is my drug of choice.  



I have not fished the canyon for two weeks (was busy with out of state friends, fishing Hartsel, 11 Mile, and Dream).  I arrived to find very high/fast water, as seen in video.

Is this water fishable?  Yes, but you must fish the conditions by learning how to fish in a shoe box!  A what -- are you crazy?

The Goal? Get your nymphs or other in a shoe box sized area as quickly as possible.  Here's how:

1. Find the slowest water possible
2. Fish seems between slow and fast water
3. Target pockets, typically behind structure (i.e., rocks) 
4. With high-fast water, you must go DEEP!  
5. Use WEIGHT to get down as fast as possible and to hold flies on bottom
6. Don't be overly concerned about matching hatch -- get bacon double cheeseburger attractor flies, with extra sauce in their face!
7. If you follow steps 1-6, you'll soon enjoy lots of feisty Poudre River Brown Trout.

If you need any help, lessons, or other, feel free to contact me.  And always remember...

1. If you ain't dragging, you ain't bragging! 

2. Fish the conditions and don't listen to high-dirty water chit-chat nonsense... I caught six fish on both days, missed another dozen strikes, and even helped a Colorado State University employee re-rig his nymphs and catch a few fish.

Plenty of fish in the Poudre -- good luck amigos!  

PS. Nymph class info at Create Your Own Class  and Client Testimonial

Fort Collins Beginner Fly Fishing Lessons: Leaders and Tippets

Leaders & Tippets: What, How, Why and More

What is a Leader?  A leader is a tapered monofilament fishing line attached to your coated and colorful fly line via, most often, a loop to loop connection, having an overall length between 6ft and 15ft. Leaders can be bought pre-made, or some anglers prefer to make their own by simply buying various diameter monofilament fishing lines. See Graph.

What is a Tippet? Generally, tippet is the last 2ft of your tapered leader.  Tippet sizes range between 8X and 0.015.  The higher the tippet number (8X) the lower the pounds, or break strength. See Graph. 

Note: To size your tippet to your fly, remember the rule of 3 or 4.  For Example: #16 size hook divided by 4 equals a 4x tippet.  If you were to use 3x or 5x instead of 4x, you should not have a problem.

Leader Length	Best suited for…
6 foot	Sinking fly lines of all types, panfish, bass, trout in tiny, brushy streams
7.5 foot	Trout in streams from 10-20 feet wide, intermediate and sinking tip lines in lakes and saltwater conditions where the fish are not terribly spooky. Also streamer fishing for trout with big flies or with heavy nymphs and big indicators
9 foot	Trout streams larger than 20 feet wide where the water is mostly riffled, or else the fish are not spooky. In salt water, fish in shallow water under bright, clear conditions.
12 foot	Trout in most lakes with floating lines. Trout in streams with flies smaller than size 16 when the water is flat, low, or very clear
15 foot	Spooky trout in extremely clear water in both lakes and rivers.

Tippet Size	Tippet Diameter	Approximate breaking strength in Super Strong nylon (pounds)	Balances with fly sizes:
8X	.003"	1.75	22, 24, 26, 28
7X	.004"	2.5	18, 20, 22, 24
6X	.005"	3.5	16, 18, 20, 22
5X	.006"	4.75	14, 16, 18
4X	.007"	6	12, 14, 16
3X	.008"	8.5	6, 8, 10
2X	.009"	11.5	4, 6, 8
1X	.010"	13.5	2, 4, 6
0X	.011"	15.5	1/0, 2, 4
.012	.012"	18.5	5/0, 4/0,3/0, 2/0
.013	.013"	20	5/0, 4/0,3/0, 2/0
.015	.015"	25	5/0, 4/0,3/0, 2/0

Advice

As a beginner angler, you might find yourself going through a lot of leaders.  At one time in my angling career, I was going through leaders often.  These days, I may use one leader per season. How? I may use a tippet ring or from the start, I may add more tippet to my leader (with double surgeons knot).  For example:  I'll start with a 9ft 3X leader and add 2ft of 4X tippet; 9ft 2X leader and add 2ft of 3X tippet. Either way, while casting, if you find your fly not turning over, adjust your tippet size to the size/length of your fly.

More information at: Equipment 

Fort Collins Beginner Fly Fishing Lessons: Fly Lines?

We are not paid to provide our opinion.  The information posted on this page comes directly form FCFF's lifetime of in-field experience, or from what FCFF believes to be the most credible resources in the industry.  Don't see what you are looking for, please feel free to contact FCFF directly...we are always happy to help!

Fly Line: How, What, Why and More

When I teach an E.I. Fly™ course, I emphasize the need to balance the combination of your fly line, rod and reel. Specifically, I feel the most important aspect of any fly rod set-up is the fly line design and its physical properties. For the beginner, it starts with a basic understanding of the weight difference between monofilament and fly fishing lines; how the weight of the fly line is designed to produce flex in the fly rod vs. the weight of the lure creating flex in a spinning rod.  You don't hear much talk about fly lines, but experts agree, to achieve a great casting stroke, it has very little to do with the rod or reel. The use of the highest quality fly line, combined with sound casting mechanics, is the key to becoming a successful fly caster. 

To get you moving in the right direction, legendary casting champion and instructor Joan Wulff defines the fly-casting stroke as: 

“The fly casting stroke is a straight-line movement of the whole rod by the rod hand, in an acceleration to a stop.  During the acceleration, the weight of the fly line flexes the rod from the tip downward.  When the acceleration is ended and the butt section of the rod is stopped, the limber rod tip flips over and the long flexible line continues on its path, passing over the tip, to form an open-ended unrolling loop. “  J. Wulff. Fly Casting techniques.

Line Design: The Core

Unlike monofilament, it’s the core of the fly line that determines the tensile strength, as well as how much it stretches and the general stiffness of the line (or lack of stiffness).  As a general rule, all cores are built to be much stronger than the heaviest tippets that are used with them.  For example, a 3 weight floating line may have a break-strength as much, if not more, than 20lbs.  Heavy fly lines such as 10Wt.  may have a break strength well over 50lbs.  Chances are, the leader and tippet will break off 99.9% of the time before your fly line will.  With respect to stretch, it’s important that a fly line core have the right amount of stretch.  Not enough stretch and the line may develop memory problems.  Too much stretch and the fly line may become mushy and difficult to control.  Lastly, the stiffness of the core will determine the action of your fly-line.  For example, lines intended for tropical fishing are designed to withstand high heat extremes.  Equally, lines developed for more temperate water are made with cores that are less stiff.  This reduces the problem of line memory that occurs when stiff line meets cold waters.

The Coating: Floating and Sinking Line

The basic function of the line coating is to provide the casting weight needed to load the fly rod.  Precise weight standards are set by the fly-fishing industry and manufacture associations.  How does a line float or sink?  The density of the line’s coating will determine whether a line will float or sink.  Specifically, floating lines (as seen in photo to the left) have micro-balloons mixed into their coatings.   The micro-balloons create buoyancy, thus allowing the line to float.  However, if too many micro-balloons are added, this will add thickness to the line and adversely affect the lines castability properties.  Manufactures also apply hydrophobic coatings on the line that are H2o resistant.  These H2o coatings actually repel the water… much like car wax beads water on a car.

Sinking Lines

As seen to the left, sinking lines have a high-density material built into their coatings, thus, allowing the lines to sink in water.  Generally speaking, manufactures use powdered tungsten because it is denser and more environmentally friendlier than lead (though lead core lines are still available).  By controlling the amount of metal powder added to the line, the manufacture can set the sink rate per line.  For example, a sink line can sink 1.0 inch per second, or +10 seconds per minute.  Lastly, since the line sinks and you cannot see it, nor do you want the fish to see it, colors are often brown or grey.

Taper Designs

Tapers: Level, Double, Forward, Long, Triangular, Shooting

The fly line’s shape or taper determines how energy is transmitted and dissipated during casting.  By varying the lengths and diameters of the various parts of the line, specific performance attributes can be accentuated.

Parts of the Taper

1.  Tip: a short 6-12 inch level section where you attach your leader.  This section is to protect the lines taper. Since many anglers cut off a small part of the fly line when they change leaders, the tip allows these changes without shortening the front taper and altering the way the line casts.

2.  Front Taper: this section of the line determines how delicately or powerfully the fly is delivered.  Typically, 4-8 feet long, the Front Taper decreases in diameter from the Belly section to the Tip.  This graduation of the line’s mass (weight) determines its ability to transfer your casting energy.

3.  Belly: because it’s the widest diameter and longest length, this section is where most of the weight of a line is located, and, consequently, where your casting energy is carried.

4.  Rear Taper:  decreasing in diameter from the thicker Belly section to the much smaller diameter running line section, the rear taper creates the transition so important to smooth casting.

5.  Head: a term used to describe the combination of parts (front taper, belly and rear taper).

6.  Running Line: typically a much smaller diameter from the belly, this section of line has been designed to make casting distance easier.

Taper Types

Level Fly Line (L):  are the easiest to understand and the least used.  A fly line that has a level taper, in essence has no taper.  A level taper fly line is of uniform weight and width for its entire length (+/- 75 ft).  In other words, it has one diameter (thickness).  Level lines float extremely well due their constant weight and width, but are much difficult to cast and control. Delicate fly presentation may be difficult because the line tends to splash on the water during a cast.  Further, level lines do not shoot as well, thus, limiting your ability to make longer cast. Take Away: Low Performance features. It transfers energy erratically and is hard to control while casting.   The best function of the level lines is in the form of fine diameter shooting lines or sinking lines to be cut up for tips for custom lines. 

Weight forward (WF): The line has extra weight and width (diameter) built into it the front potion of the line.  Taper design can vary by Manufacturer and targeted species.  But generally speaking, a WF taper is about 30 feet in length, with a short belly and short back taper followed by 60 feet of thin diameter level line. The advantages of the WF line: works over a wide range of conditions.  Casts ranging from 20-100 feet with normal size flies.  More effective line to cast in windy conditions. Take Away: easy to false cast and good for long cast. 

Special Note WF Lines:  because the extra weight and width are on one end of the fly line, it is crucial that the line be put on correctly.  Today, almost all manufacturers will assist you in this process by adding a tag(note) on the line.  A WF line cannot be reversed.  Lastly, any line whether floating or sinking which has a “head” and “running line” section which are seamlessly joined can be termed a WF fly line.  For example: Rocket Tapers, Saltwater Tapers, Steelhead Tapers, Triangle Tapers, and Teeny are well WF fly lines.

Double Taper (DT): Historically speaking the DT fly line was the most popular line at one time, and the fly line of choice for trout fisherman.  DT lines are perfectly balanced; both ends of the fly line weigh the same and each end gradually increases in width and weight the closer it gets to the middle section of the fly line at an equal rate. Thus, due to identical tapers at each end, the DT line is reversible.  If one end becomes worn, simply switch ends.  Specifically, the DT line is 90 feet long.  The first 15 feet of the line, from one end, gradually thickens .  Thereafter, the line maintains its diameter throughout the belly for 60 feet.  Upon the last 15 feet of line, the DT line gradually decreases in thickness (at an equal rate of the front taper) till it reaches the end point.  Take Away: designed to make short/medium cast at 20-50ft.  The belly of the line makes this line difficult to shoot line (you must make more false cast with line over 30ft).  Advantages: Easy to mend and roll cast due to weight of line in belly section.  Great line for dry fly delicate presentations.

Shooting Taper (ST):  Also, called Shooting Heads, were originally designed for fly-casting distance tournaments.  Like the WF line, the front portion of the ST line (or, commonly called the head) has 30 feet of heavier weighted line.  The remaining running line is uniformed in diameter and weight, but is much thinner than a traditional WF fly line.  The “Head” is joined to the shooting line by a loop-to-loop connection.  The purpose of this configuration is to reduce air resistance, and reduce friction in the rod guides.  Take Away:  Great for long cast +100f feet (world record over 200 feet). Can be highly effective in strong wind conditions (Ocean, Patagonia, etc).  Disadvantages: delicate fly presentations are almost impossible. Line control is challenging.  thin running line tends to coil and gets knotted up. To avoid these known issues, many experienced Anglers use stripping baskets.

Teeny Taper (TT): Developed by Jin Teeny, this taper does not have a front taper and has a smaller than normal running line (similar to a shooting taper/head).   The taper is designed to be very fast sinking…think deep fast water. 

Standard Line Weights

AFTMA the former American Fishing Tackle Manufacturers Associations -- now the ASA -- American Sportfishing Association states:  Fly Line Standards were developed to help fly fishing tackle manufacturers create a system that would match fly line weight to fly rod performance.  Cortland Line Company’s Leon Chandler was instrumental in initiating and completing the project.  In theory, this would standardize fly tackle manufacturing across the industry and enable fly fishers to select and balance their equipment for optimum performance. 

The system uses the weight in grains (a very small weight measure of the first 30 feet of fly line as a standard).  The table below shows fly line weight designations and their grain weight.  The system also established a tolerance level that is acceptable. (Copied from Cortland Line Company website).

Number Designation	Standard Weight	Margin For Error
1-Weight	60	54-66
2-Weight	80	74-86
3-Weight	100	94-106
4-Weight	120	114-126
5-Weight	140	134-146
6-Weight	160	152-168
7-Weight	185	177-193
8-Weight	210	202-218
9-Weight	240	230-250
10-Weight	280	270-290
11-Weight	330	318-342
12-Weight	380	368-392
13-Weight	450
14-Weight	500
15-Weight	550

Tip:  The sooner you start thinking and talking in grains, in the long run, the better your fly line knowledge will be. Why? Experts and most of the world other than the USA, speak and label products in grains. 

More Information at: Equipment Overview