DIY Fly Fishing Patagonia Argentina: Rio Santa Cruz, Steelhead, Part 3

Thanks for reading part 1 and 2 of our three part series, DIY fishing the Rio Santa Cruz for Steelhead. If you missed part 1 and 2, here are the links:

Part 1: http://firstcastflyfishing.blogspot.com/2014/04/diy-fly-fishing-patagonia-argentina-rio_18.html
Part 2: http://firstcastflyfishing.blogspot.com/2014/04/diy-fly-fishing-patagonia-argentina-rio_1942.html

We love to walk-wade, but in some parts of the world, to increase your success rate, hiring a guide is a good option.

DIY vs. Hiring a Guide on the Rio Santa Cruz

We ended part 2, on purpose, with a highly loaded question:

• Are you prepared to travel half way across the globe, attempt to speak another language, arrange transportation and lodging, walk-wade a 380 kilometer river, find the best spots to catch a Steelhead, and perform a successful DIY trip...without hiring a guide?  
• If you have two weeks or less, and if you answered yes, in my humblest opinion, you are pathologically insane!  

If you have read my bio, you know that I am a veteran DIY adventure traveler and fisherman (Alaska, British Columbia, New Zealand, and more). You also know that I 100% encourage you to do your own DIY adventures.  But sometimes, especially in far away places, when time is limited and English is not spoken, a full-on DIY trip does not make sense. Here's a personal account of a personal DIY experience, without the assistance of a guide:

Rio Grande- Tierra del Fuego (TDF):  In 1999, I spent one year hiking and fishing from Ushuaia, TDF to Columbia.  In that time, I hired a guide only once to take me into the Amazon for 2 weeks; not for the purposes of fish guiding.  Early in my trip, I DIY fished the Rio Grande for a few days. Looking back, I deeply regret not hiring a guide on the Rio Grande. Truth be told, I had the money to stay at the finest lodge, but my DIY values would not allow me...it was 100% DIY or bust.  Well, I caught a few small fish; nothing worth mentioning or posting a photo...it's somewhat embarrassing to admit this, but as they say, "live and learn."  

I share this experience with you because I do not want you to make the same mistake.  In your entire life, you may have only one chance to catch an 'Atlantic' Steelhead.  So my advice is to create a plan that balances your personal DIY needs, yet maximizes your chance to catch one, or two, or three Steelheads! 

Here are my suggestions:

1. Hire a local guide via First Cast Fly Fishing.  We have several partner guides who were born and raised in Piedra Buena...they know everything about non-fishing things in PB.  They know the river like the back of their hands and they have access (via motorboat) to places far away from the public access spots.  If you are on a budget and would only like to hire a guide for a 1-3 days, and then fish on your own = no problem.  
2. If you have little or no desire to camp, I would recommend staying in town, at one of the hotels suggested in part 2 of this series.  The hotels may not look like much, but the rooms are clean, quiet, safe, hot showers and extremely affordable. I hand picked these hotels because they are conveniently located to resources that DIY anglers need: Grocery Store, Restaurants, Banks. Regarding camping, if the weather kicks-up (wind-rain), trying to cook your dinner, or sleeping in gail force winds, after 10 hours of fishing, might not be the best idea (you need to rest your body each night). 
3. If you would like to camp, either free or paid, you can still work with us.  Bottom line, we are flexible and our program is 100% designed to meet your needs.

When to Fish Rio Santa Cruz?

The Steelhead festival celebrates the arrival of the fish, at the end of February.  Fishing during the festival enables you to be part of a unique cultural experience.  The public access/walk-wade areas will be crowded, but with our guide/boat, you can easily fish areas with little pressure.   

We boat up river, we walk-wade primo chrome spots: lock-load and get ready for the silver bullet train!

It would be nice to say that we catch a handful full of these per day.  If we catch one per day, we are doing GREAT...that's how it is fishing for Steelhead.

April-May-June = COLD and WINDY!  I am very fortunate to have the time to fish Patagonia waters.  I am also very fortunate to have the time to research all the other things to make our DIY trips very successful.

Final Word

The fishing season starts early December 01 and ends June 30th.  The Steelhead come into the river at the end of February.  Local says the best chance to catch a HUGE Steelhead is in May.  April-May-June are very cold and windy, but I have caught large fish in March and April.  If you add it up, let's face the facts...the window to fish Rio Santa Cruz really does not jive well with the North America lifestyle/holidays. Most importantly, when the fishing is HOT in Rio Santa Cruz (March, April, May), most anglers, in North America, are preparing for their opening day of fishing season (way to sell it Mark...your FIRED!).  All that being said, fishing the Rio Santa Cruz is an amazing experience, and if you are in the area, you should consider giving it it try.


Our goal with any blog post or information posted on our pages/tabs = no BS keep it real and 100% dedicated to creating a DIY program that meets your personal needs.  That being said, I hope you enjoyed reading our three part series. 

Looking forward to working with you next season and please feel free to contact me with questions.

Saludos y Abrazos Amigos

Mark

PS.  In March, if you are fishing the Rio Gallegos with us, you may want to combine a quick trip to the Rio Santa Cruz.  Sea Run Brown Trout + Steelhead = Amazing Anadromous Fishing Experience! Read more at the follow link: coming soon 

DIY Fly Fishing Patagonia Argentina: Rio Santa Cruz, Steelhead, Part 2

Big-Bad and full of Steelhead!

Our mission at First Cast Fly Fishing is to provide no B.S. Do-it-Yourself (DIY) information and to also host trips for DIY anglers.  That being said, and as you probably know, there are thousands of DIY places to fish in Patagonia. We strongly encourage you to do your own DIY trip, but if you don't speak the language and your time is limited, then maybe working with us is a good idea.  Regardless of your decision, let's talk about one of my favorite species: Steelhead.

If you missed part 1 of this three part series, please click the following link: http://firstcastflyfishing.blogspot.com/2014/04/diy-fly-fishing-patagonia-argentina-rio_18.html  we

Most anglers don't come to Patagonia targeting Steelhead.  Anglers are consumed with float trips targeting wild Brown/Rainbow Trout.  Other angles are driven to catch Sea Run Brown Trout.  But what about Steelhead?  Is it possible to DIY walk-wade for Steelhead, in Argentina?  Without any hesitation, the answer is YES-YES-YES!

Great fish, but they get bigger-stronger-faster!

How to DIY Rio Santa Cruz and Piedra Buena

One of the key features of this fishery and DIY opportunity, is the surprisingly pleasant town of Piedra Buena. I have been traveling South America since 1999, and I must say, Piedra Buena is one of the nicest towns I have visited.  Well established tourist towns like San Martin de los Andes and Junin de los Andes, would be wise to follow PB's lead.  Seriously, this town has a movie theater and a raceway! Bottom line, this place is clean, civilized and there is an obvious effort to make this an oasis in what would otherwise be flat barren desert.

Population approximately 5,000 people.  Founded in 1859.

Guanacos and Santa

Throughout the town, there are dozens of sculptures. 

Lodging in Piedra Buena

If you work with First Cast Fly Fishing, we don't make money off your lodging.  We give you a choice of DIY lodging options and you sleep where your budget and personal comforts allow you. However, we do visit and review each lodging option offered.  In the end, we pick the best DIY hotels; those that are safe-clean-quiet and close to grocery stores, restaurants, public transportation.

Walking distance to everything, and only 1/2 block away from the grocery store, the Hosteria El Alamo is the place to stay for those looking for convenience and value.  Cost $400 pesos for (2).  The owner also owns the hotel Alamo, further up the street, closer to the main highway (noisy-far away from everything)

Camping Paid vs. Camping Free

It's a bit cramped, and might be a bit noisy with larger groups, but it's your only option for in-town camping.  Hot showers, WiFi, and more.   Tent cost $50 pesos.

Camping Vial...Quincho = a place to cook, entertain, and eat.  This quincho is impressive!

Camping Vial...Dormis = a room with beds, nothing more.  Don't have a tent or want to find shelter from the wind, this will be your cheapest option in PB. Cost is about $75 pesos/per person, 4 beds per room.

Camping Vial...water front views!

Your other option for paid camping is the municipal camp ground located on Isla Pavon.  This is located across the bridge, about 35 minute walk to town.  Tent camping fee's are more than camping Vial.  FYI, you can't fish on the island.  They also have cabanas for rent and a hosteria; both modelty priced. 

If you are self-sufficient, on a tight budget, you have a few good options just outside of town.  Just before the bridge, heading south, take a right and head upstream to the town Chacra or the old blown out bridge area (see above).  You can grab a hot shower at YPF for 10 pesos.  

DIY or Hire a Guide

At First Cast Fly Fishing, within our hearts we are true DIY anglers.  We encourage every one to experience a DIY angling vacation; however, from our experience, there are times that doing it alone, is simply not worth the hassle. Bottom line, in far away places such as Piedra Buena, it's best to hire a local guide to help you achieve the ultimate goal = catching a Steelhead.  So, if you have doubts about flying across the globe, attempting to speak a foreign language, and figuring out the secrets of a river that is 380 kilometers long, you may want to read about our DIY Rio Santa Cruz guided programs, in Part 3.

Thanks for reading Part 1 and 2. To read part 3, please follow http://firstcastflyfishing.blogspot.com/2014/04/diy-fly-fishing-patagonia-argentina-rio_2237.html

Saludos y Abrazos Amigos,

Mark

DIY Fly Fishing Patagonia Argentina: Rio Santa Cruz, Atlantic Steelhead, Part 1

Big-Bad and full of Steelhead!

Our mission at First Cast Fly Fishing is to provide no B.S. Do-it-Yourself (DIY) information and to also host trips for DIY anglers.  That being said, and as you probably know, there are thousands of DIY places to fish in Patagonia. We strongly encourage you to do your own DIY trip, but if you don't speak the language and your time is limited, then maybe working with us is a good idea.  Regardless of your decision, let's talk about one of my favorite species: Steelhead.

Most anglers don't come to Patagonia targeting Steelhead.  Anglers are consumed with float trips targeting wild Brown/Rainbow Trout.  Other angles are driven to catch Sea Run Brown Trout.  But what about Steelhead?  Is it possible to DIY walk-wade for Steelhead, in Argentina?  Without any hesitation, the answer is YES-YES-YES!

In less than 30 minutes, every star in the sky will be visible and it is mind-blowing beautiful.

Welcome to the Santa Cruz river; the only known Atlantic Ocean Steelhead fishery in the world.
Let's review the facts that makes the Santa Cruz one of the best DIY Steelhead fisheries in the world:

• Location:  Piedra Buena.  230 Kilometers north of Rio Gallegos.
• How to Get There:  A) overnight bus from Buenos Aires.  B) Fly to Rio Gallegos and either rent a car or take a bus to Piedra Buena (2.5 hour drive time)
• Public Transportation:  There are no buses to/from the river, but you could walk to locations near town or hire a taxi to take you up river.
• Fishing Season:  December 01 till June 30th. 
• Licensed Required: General fishing only, good for all of Patagonia, except TDF.  
• Floating: NO.  If we are not walking-wading, we work with a guide who owns a motorboat. The advantage of the boat = access more areas with less pressure.  
• Public Access Points:  The land surrounding the river is 100% private; however, you can walk-wade both sides of the river for miles and miles.
• Length: 380 kilometers of some of the most wildest Patagonia land.
• Width:  At certain points the river is a half mile wide. 
• Species:  Rainbow Trout - Steelhead.
• When:  Fish come into the river at the end of February.  Best/Biggest fish at the end of May. 
• Origin: Lago Argentino. South America's third largest lake.
• Termination: Atlantic Ocean.  
• Walk-Wade Difficulty:  This a free-stone/gravel river, with limited structure.  Current is steady and strong = up to your waist in slow water areas only!
• H2O:  Fed by the southern ice field, the waters are glacial/silty. Water is cold, never rising above 50 degrees. 
• Tidal:  Yes; though not dangerous, the river can rise up to 8ft.  
• Where to Stay:  A) in-town hotel or in-town camping.  B) there is free camping, along the river, upstream from main bridge. 
• Fly Rods: You could fish with a single hand 8wt/9wt, but with the wind, it's a lot of work! Two handed rods are preferred. 11ft/8wt switch rods will work, but they might not be able to handle the line weight, fly weight, and wind combination.  8wt over-head two handed rods, around 12/13ft, designed for heavy weighted tips, and chucking line far, work extremely well. Traditional 14ft Spey rods work extremely well.  
• Fly Lines:  Depends on the location/water flow, but 9 meter full-sink T-11 through T-18 work well. Backing = amnesia or running line.  Tippet = 20lb mono.
• Specific Flies:  The fly selection is not complicated, but we only share this information with our guest. 

I am not sure that I will ever fully comprehend that this is a Rainbow Trout! 

If you read or following our blog, you'll notice how we break things down; generally into three parts.  So, the next post (#2) will focus on how to DIY in/around town, and the last post (#3), will focus on how to successfully fish this river.  Hope you enjoyed this post and thanks for reading.

Saludos y Abrazos Amigos,

Mark

DIY Fly Fishing Patagonia Argentina: Walk-Wade Rio Corcovado

Do you like to fish for big WILD Brook Trout/Fontinalis?

Our mission at First Cast Fly Fishing is to provide no B.S. Do-it-Yourself (DIY) information and to also host trips for DIY anglers.  That being said, and as you probably know, there are thousands of DIY places to fish in Patagonia. We strongly encourage you to do your own DIY trip, but if you don't speak the language and your time is limited, then maybe working with us is a good idea.  Regardless of your decision, let's talk about one of my favorite species: Fontinalis - Brook Trout.

Most anglers don't come to Patagonia thinking wild Brook Trout.  Anglers are consumed with float trips targeting wild Brown/Rainbow Trout.  Other angles are driven to catch anadromous fish such as the Sea Run Brown Trout.  But what about the Brook Trout?  Personally, Brook Trout are special to me because at the young age of 9 years old, my first fish caught on a fly rod, was a Brook Trout.  I will never forget that moment; it's the whole reason why I fly fish and why I like to fish small technical streams.  So, here in Patagonia, whenever I get the chance to fish for wild Brook Trout, I jump on it.

Your options for Brook Trout fishing in Patagonia (not Tierra del Fuego) are:

• Many of the small lakes or mountain ponds hold Brook Trout.  There are hundreds of these lakes and ponds throughout Patagonia.  Some are easy to get to, while others are very challenging. You'll need a belly boat to effectively fish these waters.
• Rio Corcovado and the surrounding small lakes/ponds.
• Rio Coyle: located in the Rio Gallegos area, this is extremely far from traditional northern Patagonia trout fisheries. 
• Spring creek located inside Los Alerces National Park: easy access, but extremely technical fishery.  

Regarding an anglers ability to DIY walk-wade for wild Brook Trout in Argentina, in my opinion, there is no question, it's the Rio Corcovado.  Let's review the facts that makes the Corcovado a great DIY fishery: 

• Location:  Between the towns of Corcovado and Rio Pico = easy access.  Rio Pico is closer to the river and the dirt road is well maintained. Coming into to Pico, a newly paved road now exists. 
• How to Get There:  Esquel to Tecka to Gdor. Costa to Rio Pico to the river.  Or, Trevelin to Corcovado to the river.  Traveling via Gdor. Costa offers more pavement.
• Public Transportation:  There are no buses to the river.
• Fishing Season: November 01 till April 15th. 
• Licensed Required: General fishing only, good for all of Patagonia, except TDF.  
• Floating: Upper Stretches = No.  Lower Stretches = There is rafting on class 4 rapids on the lower stretches, near the town to Corcovado.
• Public Access Points:  The land surrounding the river is 100% private; however, at the boca or RP 44 bridge, there is public access. 
• Length: 120 km total; but for fishing purposes (upper section only), and if you like to walk, there are many miles of fishable water. 
• Species:  Brook Trout and Rainbow Trout.
• When:  You can fish the river anytime, during the regular fishing season.  However, most anglers come at the end of the season.  They do so because they are targeting large migratory Brook Trout and the fall colors are exceptional.  
• Origin: Lago Vinter, 3,000 ft above sea level.
• Termination: Pacific Ocean.  Oddly, this river crosses into Chile and changes name to Rio Palena. 
• Walk-Wade Difficulty:  This is mostly a free-stone river, with limited structure.  Early season flows may provide extreme challenges for most anglers. Late season (March 15th - April 15th) There are many places to cross the river, in shallow riffles. 
• H2O:  Water is extremely cold and clean.  Be extremely cautious not to spook fish.
• Where to Stay:  A) in-town at Rio Pico or Corcovado.  B) free camping at the mouth. 
• Fly Rods: Depending on the angler, single hand 9ft/5wt-8wt.  Two Handed Switch Rod 5wt.  
• Fly Lines:  Single Hand: WF Floating and an array of poly-leader tips.  This is a fantastic river for two handed switch rods. If you use a switch rod = I use a Skagit head suited to the grain window, and various poly-leader tips.
• Specific Flies:  The fly selection is not complicated, but we only share this information with our guest. 

Tips and More

Fish the boca/mouth at first and last night.  If the water levels are low (as seen in the photo) the use of a belly boat will put you within casting distance of larger fish.

My 1st Corcovado Fontinalis of the season.  The boca/mouth, no joke, has millions of small rainbow's and brookies.  Because the water was very low, I chose to experiment with my tango (czech) nymph rig.  I used #20 flies and I probably caught 100 of these little beauties.

Camping is free; within walking distance of the boca/mouth. But come prepared for all types of weather...you have been warned!  In the background is friend and long time Corcovado fisherman, Raul de Rossi. Raul has been coming here for the past 30 years.  During siesta, I love sitting with him and listening to his fishing tales (all true tales...he's a living legend).

From the boca/mouth/free camping area = If you follow this dirt road along the lake, you'll find more camping opportunities.  Just remember where you are or where you take your car = if you have car problems here, you have a BIG problem.

From the free camping area, by foot, cross the road; there is a white gate = climb over the gate and follow the road.  You'll come to a second non-painted gate = climb over the gate and walk-fish for miles and miles. 

On many occasions, I have walked up to 3 hours downstream.  On a windless day, all you can hear is your heart beat and breathing rhythm's; inhaling and exhaling.  Walking up to 3 hours does not mean the fishing is better, but if solitude is your thing, then you're in the right place.

As I said above, this is a very good river for a switch rod.  However, in many pools be careful of slapping the water with the head = fish are very-very spooky here.  Many anglers here use a single hand rod with a WFF and they use traditional 'wet fly' techniques = very effective with spooky fish, but getting deep, in some pools, can be problematic.    

There are some spots of the river, higher on the banks, where you will see dozens of large Brook Trout lying low on the bottom. Step #1: close you gapping mouth...your are drooling.  Step #2: think about how you will approach these monsters; you casting angle is critical to a good, natural presentation.  Step #3: when they are frozen (not moving) it is very difficult to catch one.  Be patient, keep your cast as stealth as possible and don't give up.  My last cast produces a beautiful Fontinalis.

Final Word

There are spots/pools on this river, where the big fish definitely hold.  Finding those spots could take you days, if not weeks.  Fortunately for me, I have had the time to learn about this river and I have been fishing it for years.  If you would like First Cast Fly Fishing to host you (put you in the best spots), please feel free to contact us.  Many thanks for reading and good luck on your next DIY adventure.

Saludos y Abrazos Amigos,

Mark 

DIY Fly Fishing Patagonia Argentina: Sea Run Brown Trout Rio Gallegos, Part 3

Thanks for reading part 1 and 2 of our three part series, DIY fishing the Rio Gallegos for Sea Run Brown Trout.  If you missed part 1 and 2, here are the links:

Part 1:  http://firstcastflyfishing.blogspot.com/2014/04/diy-fly-fishing-patagonia-argentina-rio.html
Part 2:  http://firstcastflyfishing.blogspot.com/2014/04/diy-fly-fishing-patagonia-argentina-rio_17.html

DIY vs. Hiring a Guide on the Rio Gallegos

We ended part 2, on purpose, with a highly loaded question:

• Are you prepared to travel half way across the globe, attempt to speak another language, arrange transportation and lodging, walk-wade a +300 kilometer river, find the best spots to catch a Sea Run Brown Trout, and perform a successful DIY trip...without hiring a guide?  
• If you have two weeks or less, and if you answered yes to the above question, in my humblest opinion, you are pathologically insane!  

If you have read my bio, you know that I am a veteran DIY adventure traveler and fisherman (Alaska, British Columbia, New Zealand, and more). You also know that I 100% encourage you to do your own DIY adventures.  But sometimes, especially in far away places, when time is limited and English is not spoken, a full-on DIY trip does not make sense. Here's a personal account of a personal DIY experience, without the assistance of a guide:

Rio Grande- Tierra del Fuego (TDF):  In 1999, I spent one year hiking and fishing from Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego to Columbia.  In that time, I hired a guide only once to take me into the Amazon for two weeks; not for the purposes of fish guiding.  Early in my trip, I DIY fished the Rio Grande for a few days. Looking back, I deeply regret not hiring a guide on the Rio Grande. Truth be told, I had the money to stay at the finest lodge, but my DIY values would not allow me...it was 100% DIY or bust. Well, I caught a few small fish; nothing worth mentioning or posting a photo...it's somewhat embarrassing to admit this, but as they say, "live and learn."  

I share this experience with you because I do not want you to make the same mistake.  In your entire life, you may have only one chance to catch a Sea Run Brown Trout.  So my advice is to create a plan that balances your personal DIY needs, yet maximizes your chance to catch one, or two, or three SRBT! 

Here are my suggestions:

1. Hire a local guide via First Cast Fly Fishing.  We have several partner guides who were born and raised in Rio Gallegos...they know everything about non-fishing things in Rio Gallegos. They know the river like the back of their hands and they have private access to places far away from the crowded, over fished, public access spots.  If you are on a budget and would only like to hire a guide for a 1-3 days, and then fish on your own = no problem.   
2. If you have little or no desire to camp, I would recommend staying in town, at one of the hotels suggested in part two of this series.  The hotels may not look like much, but the rooms are clean, quiet, safe, hot showers and extremely affordable. I hand picked these hotels because they are conveniently located to resources that DIY anglers need: Grocery Store, Restaurants, Banks. Regarding camping, for two reasons, I don't recommend it:  1) Theft.  2) If the weather kicks-up (wind-rain), trying to cook your dinner, or sleeping in gail force winds, after 10 hours of fishing, might not be the best idea (you need to rest your body each night). 
3. If you would like to camp, and work with our guides, no problem.  Bottom line, we are flexible and our program is 100% designed to meet your needs.

When to Fish Rio Gallegos?

The fishing season starts early November and ends April 30th.  The SRBT come into the river in November. The locals hit it hard during November and December.  If your schedule permits, and you don't mind funky weather and mixing it up with the locals, December can produce some great fish. But, the majority of anglers show up when the weather turns in their favor; January through March.  During January through the end of March, water temps and flow are best for catching fish.  April is an option which affords off-season discounts, funky weather patterns, cold water and a chance to have the river to yourself.  

Late season (April) SRBT color changes.

Tons of healthy resident Brown Trout in the Rio Gallegos; I have seen pics of resident brown's that are +15 kilos and +35"

A.M. commute from downtown to the river

Walking this river is not the issue.  Finding the primo holding spots for SRBT is the issue.  Much of the water is featureless, making it hard to easily identify good water.  If you have a few years, you could eventually figure it out :)

Our goal with any blog post or information posted on our pages/tabs = no BS...keep it real and 100% dedicated to creating a DIY program that meets your personal needs.  That being said, I hope you enjoyed reading our three part series.  By now, I hope you realize why we believe the Rio Gallegos is the best DIY walk-wade SRBT river in the world.

Looking forward to working with you next season and please feel free to contact me with questions.

Saludos y Abrazos Amigos

Mark 

DIY Fly Fishing Patagonia Argentina: Rio Gallegos Sea Run Brown Trout, Part 2

You have read Part 1 at http://firstcastflyfishing.blogspot.com/2014/04/diy-fly-fishing-patagonia-argentina-rio.html  and you have come to the conclusion that you would like to fish for Sea Run Brown Trout in Argentina. But, you might still be wondering whether to fish the Rio Gallegos or Rio Grande; or maybe both. You might be wondering whether you would like to stay in a lodge, hotel, or camp. You also might be wondering whether you can 'effectively' DIY fish either river; or, would hiring a local guide be your best option. If you have these thoughts floating in your head, then read on!

Rio Gallegos vs. Rio Grande 

For any angler that works with First Cast Fly Fishing, our goal is to meet your personal needs.  So, we are not in a position to say that one river is better than the other...it depends on each angler.  But, we have walked a lot of rivers in Patagonia, and for our own personal DIY walk-wade style of fishing, we favor the Rio Gallegos. Why?

• Length:  We love to explore and fish untouched waters.  At +300 kilometers, you'll have miles and miles of river to explore.  
• Access:  We'll talk more about this below, but there are plenty of access points which allow you to walk up and downstream for miles.
• Structure:  This not a traditional trout river, peppered with rocks, tree's, pools, runs, etc.  The river has a gravel bottom, it's shallow, and without features (though there are some areas with small tree's/bushes along the banks).  The multitude of snake like bends offer the greatest form of structure, providing key areas to target both resident and SRBT.
• Water Flow:  Crossing this river, even at points with the fastest currents, should never be an issue.
• Location:  We find it less expensive to travel (fly, bus, drive) to Rio Gallegos.  
• Anadromous Fishing: The location offers the ability to jump in the car, drive 2 hours north and fish for Steelhead, in the Rio Santa Cruz (read separate post).  In fact, we do this a lot and there is no other place in the world that offers this convenience.
• Lodging:  We like the flexibility of being able to camp on the river or stay in town. 
• Small Stream Fishing:  By nature, we are small stream technical fisherman.  We love being able to walk-up the smaller tributaries such as the Rio Gallegos Chico, Rubens and Penitente.  These rivers hold mostly resident Brown Trout, and some have known to reach 3-4 kilos. 
• Brook Trout:  A short drive, according to Patagonia standards, brings you to the Rio Coyle.  This is one of two rivers in all of Patagonia that holds trophy sized Fontinalis. 
• Wild-Open:  The combination of rolling hills, flat grass-lands, volcanic rocks/cliffs, big blue skies, and wild animals, offers an amazing Patagonia experience.

Lodge-Hotel-Camp

Our mission at First Cast Fly Fishing is to offer fishing programs for the DIY angler; an angler who loves to walk-wade, or combine walking-wading and floating.  That being said, we have nothing against lodges, but we don't actively promote them.  So, let's talk about your lodging and camping options in Rio Gallegos.

Rio Gallegos Hotels

Forgot something at home...step outside your 5 star DIY hotel and negotiate with a local street vendor

We typically stay at 5 star DIY hotels, hostels, hosteria's (i.e. anything with a good bed and hot shower).  If you would like something a bit more fancy = no problem.  The prices in Rio Gallegos range from $30 USD to $200 USD per night.  The best five star DIY hotels in the Rio Gallegos are:

• Hotel Punta Arenas.  The best overall value = safe, quiet, clean,  parking, great cafe and fair pricing.
• Hotel Paris = less expensive that Punta Arenas, clean, safe, parking, rooms w/without bathrooms.
• Hotel Covadonga = about the same as hotel Paris, but with more graffiti. (see pic above).

Camping and Hotel:  Non City (Rio Gallegos) Options

Great location along the river, but high prices and horrible service.

If you choose not to stay in town, thus, eliminating your daily commute to the river, your only option for lodging is the tired and expensive Hotel Bella Vista; located in the tiny town called Bella Vista (not to be confused with estancia/lodge Bella Vista).  Hotel BV is located approximately 50 miles from the rotary on route 3 (about 1.0-1.5 hours from downtown).  They also offer camping. Forewarned, a cup of coffee will cost more here than in the USA; but, your within walking distance of the Rio Gallegos and Gallegos Chico.  If you stay here, and to cut cost, bring plenty of your own food/beverage with you.


Free Camping at Public Access Points

5 miles from the route 3 rotary is the public access point called, Toma Palermo Aike or locally known as, Toma Agua.  This is an extremely popular fishing-camping spot.  In other words, be prepared for lots of anglers, swimming, drinking, eating, and trash.  But sooner or later, every SRBT passes through this area!  

If you are prepared to camp, you can camp at all the public access points.  The public access points start just beyond the route 3 rotary and end at Puente Blanco.  The first public access point from the rotary is 2.5 miles. The second is 3.5 miles from the route 3 rotary.  How do you know what a public access point looks like?

When you see an open gate without an estancia's name on it = it's a public access point

It is 105 miles from the route 3 rotary till Puente Blanco.  The drive from downtown Gallegos is about 2 hours.  There are no services at this location.  Rio Rubens and Rio Penitente are a short walk up-stream.   If you go beyond the bridge, the next town, about 1.5 hours away (traveling on a pure Patagonia dirt road), is 28 de Noviembre = a small town with gas and food.

DIY or Hire a Guide

At First Cast Fly Fishing, within our hearts we are true DIY anglers.  We encourage every one to experience a DIY angling vacation; however, from our experience, there are times that doing it alone, is simply not worth the hassle. Bottom line, in far away places, it's best to hire a local guide to help you achieve the ultimate goal, catching a Sea Run Brown Trout.  So, if you have doubts about flying across the globe, attempting to speak a foreign language, and figuring out the secrets of a river that is + 300 kilometers long,  you may want to read about our DIY Rio Gallegos guided programs, in Part 3.

Thanks for reading Part 1 and 2. To read part 3, please follow

http://firstcastflyfishing.blogspot.com/2014/04/diy-fly-fishing-patagonia-argentina-sea.html

Saludos Amigos

Mark

DIY Fly Fishing Patagonia Argentina: Rio Gallegos Sea Run Brown Trout, Part 1

When you think of fly fishing for Sea Run Brown Trout (SRBT), you probably think about a few, select rivers, located around the world. If you made a short list of the best known SRBT rivers in the world, I bet the Rio Grande, located in Tierra del Fuego, would be on that list.  This river has a great reputation for SRBT and also has a few lodges that run a cool + $6,000 USD per week. Throw in the cost of your flights, equipment, miscellaneous expenses, and your looking at +/- $10,000 USD (to be safe, you should budget at least this amount).  A trip of a lifetime (as they say) to catch a huge SRBT and to boot, pay a huge bill.  But, what about those who can't afford the bill, or those who can afford a lodge, but don't like the atmosphere; or those who are truly DIY anglers?  Well, you could spend years saving your pennies to fish and stay at a lodge; for example, on the Rio Grande.  However, in my opinion, you could fish the best DIY walk-wade SRBT river in the world, located just up the street, called the Rio Gallegos.

Which Argentina river has more and bigger SRBT?

Many times this is the question and discussion we have amongst ourselves/anglers.  Personally, I don't care to engage in such discussions because I find the dialogue to be led by a narrative created by the industry (manufacturer's, lodges, guides, etc).   The true question to ask; "which river will best meet your personal needs; whether DIY or lodge angling?"  Only firsthand experience will truly allow you to know which river is best for you. But, I have DIY fished both the Rio Grande and Rio Gallegos.  I have spent more time on the Gallegos, and the last time I fished Rio Grande was back in 1999.  Both are exceptional rivers.  Both can be fished by the DIY angler. Both produce large SRBT.  But, year after year, the Rio Grande produces more, and bigger fish than the Gallegos.  Why? 

1. In my opinion, from the very beginnings of the Rio Grande fishery, the combination of private land/estancias-lodges (i.e. inaccessible public access/public roads = no pressure) and strict conservation efforts, have paved the way for a healthy sustainable fishery. 
2. At one time, as a SRBT fishery, the Rio Gallegos reputation was equal to the Rio Grande.  But something happened to cause a decline in the amount of fish returning to the river.  Here's what happened:

• Commercial fishing (netting) severely effected the annual return of big healthy anadromous fish.
• Unlimited catch and kill by sport fisherman was practiced for decades.  Poaching still occurs but there has been a cultural shift towards catch and release.
• Route 40 parallels much of the Rio Gallegos; thus, making access incredibly easy for +6,000 local anglers and the entire world = pressure and pollution.
• Conservation efforts were non existent for many years.  Rio Gallegos now has as an active fishing association and expert biologist working to protect the river.

A horrible and tragic end to a magnificent creature.  Poaching may never stop, but conservation efforts are now stronger than ever, in the Rio Gallegos community.

Good News, BIG Fish Return to Rio Gallegos

• Commercial fishing/netting is no longer allowed.  
• Local anglers can only keep one fish during the month of February.
• Education and conservation efforts by local fisherman/groups is now part of their fishing cultural.

Years ago (decades), the Rio Gallegos consistently produced BIG healthy anadromous trout.  Local living legend, Raul Rossi, now retired and in his early 70's, has told me stories and shown me photos of the 'good old' days.  For example, Raul has a photo of a resident brown trout that is + 35" and THICK (easily +15 kilos). He tells me the 'good old' days are long gone, but the fishery is on the rebound.  Just this season (2013-2014), more than 100,000 SRBT returned to the river!


DIY Walk-Wade Rio Gallegos

With respect to an anglers ability to DIY walk-wade for SRBT in Argentina, in my opinion, there is no question, it's the Rio Gallegos.  Let's review the facts that makes the Gallegos a great DIY fishery: 

• Location: About 25 kilometers from downtown to the Rio Gallegos bridge.  It's an easy daily commute from your hotel.  Or, you could even take a taxi to some of the closest DIY access points.  
• How to Get There:  There are daily flights from Buenos Aires, direct to Rio Gallegos.  FYI, the cost for round-trip airfare to Gallegos is cheaper than the Rio Grande.  If you're on a tight budget, you could also take an over-night bus from Buenos Aires.
• Personal Transportation:  At the Rio Gallegos airport, you can rent a car via a large international company (e.g. Hertz) or work with an in-town rental agency, that typically offers a better pricing.
• Fishing Season: Rio Gallegos, November 01 till April 30th. FYI, Rio Grande, the other SRBT option =  November 01 till April 15th. 
• Licensed Required: Gallegos = general fishing only, good for all of Patagonia, except TDF.  
• Floating:  99.99% of anglers/guides/outfitters/lodges do not float the Rio Gallegos.  However, it is possible, and a few DIY nut-balls have done it; in small one man rafts.
• Public Access Points:  The land surrounding the Rio Gallegos river is 100% private; however, there are a enough public access points to keep you walking-fishing for a lifetime...make that two lifetimes! Plus, and most importantly, route 40 parallels much of the river.  
• Length: +350 kilometers...this river is LONG, with tons and tons of water!  
• Gallegos Species: Resident and Sea Run Brown Trout.  Resident Brown Trout can reach +/- 10 kilos. SRBT can reach +15 kilos. 
• When:  SRBT enter the river in November.  Weather and tides are challenging in November and December.  Best months are January, February, and March.  April is considered off-season, and offers the angler a chance to have the river to him/herself (but water and weather can be COLD!)
• Origin: Andes Mountains.
• Termination: Atlantic Ocean.
• Walk-Wade Difficulty: The Gallegos is fairly shallow river with a gravel floor. There are many places to cross the river, in shallow riffles.  However, there are some pools deep enough to prevent deep water wading (aside from your personally safety, you really don't want to spook the fish by wading too deep).
• Where to Stay:  A) in-town.  B) free camping at a public access point. C) rooms and campsites at Hotel Bella Vista = services are poor and prices are extremely high, but you are within walking distance to the Gallegos Chico river and Gallegos river. 
• Fly Rods Rio Gallegos: Depending on location and weather, single hand 9-10ft/7-8wt, medium-fast action.  Two Handed, 11-13ft, 7/8wt.  
• Fly Rods Gallegos Chico:  Single Hand 9ft 4-6wt.
• Fly Lines:  Single Hand: WF Floating.  Two Handed: Skagit suited to your rod's grain window, and various poly-leader tips (intermediate sink rate is used frequently).
• Specific Flies:  The fly selection is not complicated, but we only share this information with our guest. 

If you are still reading this, it might suggest that you are interested in fishing for Sea Run Brown Trout in Argentina.  As the title suggest, this is Part 1.  Please read Part 2 for more details on how to make this a successful DIY fishing trip. http://firstcastflyfishing.blogspot.com/2014/04/diy-fly-fishing-patagonia-argentina-rio_17.html

Thanks for reading!  To see more photos, please visit our Facebook page.

Saludos Amigos

Mark

DIY Fly Fishing Patagonia Argentina and Chile: Client Testimonial, 2 Countries, 6 Rivers, in 10 Days!

Jeremy (L) and Kyle (R), on top of Cerro Catedral, in San Carlos de Bariloche

After letting our amazing trip soak in, we want to take the time to thank you for putting it all together. 

Starting out, we had little expectations, other than fishing our brains out in the heart of Patagonia. Fishing with you and your partner, in and around Junin De Los Andes, was a great start to an incredible trip. You guys treated us like friends and provided great hospitality. 

We love to walk-wade, but drifting with your partner was definitely a highlight.  We had a dreamy itinerary consisting of multiple regions, national parks, camping and some culture. We couldn't have imagined the logistics of figuring out 6+ rivers and two countries, in under 10 days on our own. Your mix of DIY and guiding was exactly what we were looking for. The combination of your truck, local knowledge, and Spanish speaking skills, were clutch!

Thanks again for everything and we look forward to seeing you on the river soon.

Kyle and Jeremy.  New Hampshire, USA. 

To see pics and read more about their incredible 10 day adventure travel of both Argentina and Chile, please visit the following links:

http://firstcastflyfishing.blogspot.com.ar/2014/02/diy-fly-fishing-patagonia-argentina-new.html

http://firstcastflyfishing.blogspot.com.ar/2014/02/diy-fly-fishing-patagonia-argentina-new_20.html
http://firstcastflyfishing.blogspot.com.ar/2014/02/diy-fly-fishing-patagonia-argentina-ad_23.html
http://firstcastflyfishing.blogspot.com.ar/2014/02/diy-fly-fishing-patagonia-chile-new.html
http://firstcastflyfishing.blogspot.com.ar/2014/02/diy-fly-fishing-patagonia-argentina-ad.html

Fishing with FCFF in Patagonia 

We feel very fortunate to host anglers from all over the world...it's a wonderful experience sharing our angling cultures.  We also feel very fortunate to host anglers from the USA; in this particular instance, two anglers from my home state, New Hampshire.

Please feel free to read more client testimonials at http://firstcastflyfishing.blogspot.com.ar/p/raves.html

Many Thanks.